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7 things you have to try in Georgia

22/10/2014 — by admin — 0

Wine – first and the most characteristic produce of Georgia. Georgia declares itself as an origin of wine 7000 years ago. They developed a special production method using clay jars called kvevri. It’s even added to UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
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Almost all teritories of Georgia are wine producers. Starting of course from Kaheti (leading in terms of volume) in the east where harvest starts in the first half of September until the republic of Abkhazia in the west where the pick up can be even at the end of November. Georgians developed around 400 different types of grape varieties that are grown exclusively there. Another thing are wine types which usually contain a mix of different grape types. The flagship type of Georgian wine is Saperavi, an obligatory position in the offer of each respectable georgian winery. Other popular varieties are Kindzmarauli and Pirosmani. More about wine – here.
Cha-cha – another product of grapes. This time using leftovers from vine production. This is a type of moonshine with 45-60% of alcohol. It’s produced at homes – it is completely legal traditional product. Strong as hell, often served in bars like tequila, with lemon. Of course it is also produced by professionals and sold in stylish bottles. And it tastes more or less like that:
Borjomi – mineral water, naturaly carbonated, cures stomach problems, diabetes and other diseases. Rich in minerals has a specific taste and smell, possible to drink only when cooled. It’s dad’s favourite, while mom just cannot look at it. The city of Borjomi where the water originates is a spa resort, worth visiting and driking some water straight from the spring. The water used to be drawn straight from the river from a makeshift metal cage. Today the center of the town is modernised and is more visitors-friendly.
Fresh fruits – warm climate of Georgia lets grow many kinds of fruits and vegetables. The most common is of course grape. Red and white, all very very sweet and delicious. Besides wine and fruits themselves Georgians have some other idea for of grapes.

At first sight it looks like sausage but in fact it’s nuts on a string dipped in the mix of grape and flour. Delicious! Apart from grapes Georgia abounds in other fruits. Depending on the region there are apricots, bananas, pomegranates, figs, watermelons, kiwi fruits, almonds, walnuts. All fresh, sweet and tasty. Ola liked them a lot, especialy apples and oranges. Just to play right now, she will try them next time.
Bread – Caucasian bread is different than the one we know in Europe. First of all it has another shape – it’s flat and eye-shaped. It’s not used for making sandwiches or to be cut but rather to be torn. And tastes more like a roll.
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There are some sweet variations of this bread – with rasins and cinamone. They are especialy popular by the road Senaki-Tbilisi in the mountains, before Khashuri. There is a lot of booths selling warm bread just afer the period of handicraft and motor oil zone. Just have to stop there and give it a try.
Khachapuri – a type of pie or bread, filled with cheese, sometimes with added potatos or eggs. Don’t be surprised when ordering khachapuri in different places you will get a different meal each time. Pay attention to what kind of khachapuri is there on the menu. Our favourite is adjarian one – with cheese and egg with butter on the top, all shaped as a boat or an eye.

Other kinds are also named from the region of their origin: Mingrelian, Imeretian, – round and flat, the most popular type, Ossetian, Svanuri, Rachuli, Phenovani, Abkhazian (multilayer). This is one of our fist choice dishes as it looks unusually, tastes great and it’s alway safe because in any variation it contains meat.
I think it was Ola’s first bread she ever tried – a dough from khachapuri. She seemed to like it.
And it was the time when she started being interested in what’s on the table. In Georgia you can always count on help when you are with a baby. „You eat, I will take care of the baby” we hear the waitress reaching for our girl. Never in our lives we have eaten faster.
Salad – very well accopmanies khachapuri. Basic Georgian salad is simple and if made of fresh produce, of amazing taste. The recipe is simple: fresh cucumbers, tomatoes and onions, seasoned with fresh parsley. Of course many variations have developed, starting from garnishing with purple basil, adding green pepers, to the types with cheese or with walnuts (sauce of walnuts, ground coriander, garlic and vinegar) but the basic version is our favourite.
Meat-eaters will probaby by delighted with Georgian shashlik. Usually made of pork or chicken. Barbecue is highly prcaticed method of meet preparation especialy for some holidays or other family feasts. We cannot say anything more cause we don’t eat meat but our friends are huge shashlik fans.

Georgian ambrosia – our wine stories

22/10/2014 — by admin — 0

What product is Georgia most famous for? Right, it’s high quality wine. Right after Borjomi water or maybe before… Anyway Georgian climate and landscape is a perfect condition to grow grapevine. Some say that it’s Georgia where wine was invented thousands years ago.

So what is the best time to visit Georgia because of wine? Wine you can try anytime but September- October give the possibility to witness the harvest.

The most famous for wine region of Georgia is Kachetia. It’s east from Tbilisi. 100 km away from Tbilisi is situated its capital Telavi. Views on the way as always beautiful.

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In this part of country the harvest might start even at the begining of September. It’s very sunny and grapes ripen very fast. At the beginning of September we found on the streets trucks full of grapes going to factories to sell their fruits.

In front of local factories there are lines of hundreds of trucks, tractors and other vehicles. All full of grapes, mostly dark, small but very very sweet grapes.

The whole work in the factory starts in the evening when the fruits are picked and loaded on trucks. So in the peak season they dont sleep at night for weeks. Despite so much work Georgians will always find some time and attention for others. We were let to the factory and shown the process of receiving of fruits!

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When in Kachetia they are having hard time working, west from Tbilisi farmers are still waiting for the friuts to ripen. They might start harvest even in the middle of October. By that time they are happy to welcome visitors.

To learn about the history and wine production we took a guided tour in Chateau Mukhrani winery.

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This is a vinery factory owned by multinational group of people. Indeed a good place to learn about wine because although they currently don’t use traditional Georgian way of production, they have an exhibition that lets familiarize with it.

They offer guided tour including testing of 4 wine types for 35 lari, unless you are a brestfeeding mother/ driver and pay 20 just for the tour.

Chateau Mukhrani owns 100 hactares of vineyards, carefully planted and looked after.

One of their secrets is cuting bunches of wines if there are too many on one plant to provide each little grape maximum benefit from the soil and from the sun. Those that were cut lie under the bushes.

Although they produce wine in modern way, they are planning to set up production in old Georgian tradition. For the time being we can see old kvevris exhibited in the castle’s cellars. Kvevri is a storage vessel, a jar which was used for wine production.

That Georgian production method involves puting grapes and juice together to those kvevris buried underground so that only the hatch was visible. Process is controlled with the usage of special tool on the stick used for getting the wine out of kvevri.

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Continuing the tour we were taken to the cellars where the wine matures in oak casks.

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We finished with tasting of 4 main types of Mukhrani wines. Fast, as Ola and mom got only to smell the glasses. Tasting and the whole tour is well prepared, everything is very professional, well arranged with fluent English speaking guide! It was pleasure to visit them.

But real adventure waited for us few kliometers further, near the city of Gori. Following the signs of wine route we arrived to the village Ateni Sioni. Not without problems of course. We got totaly lost in Stalin’s town – Gori. Local men asked by driving mom for direction turned out to be very helpful, right after asking „Yhy, ok, where is somebody to whom I can explain?” Probably only man was a partner to talk. Finally we reached the village of Ateni.

And found a house tagged as Old Wine Cellar. House was closed, nobody aroud, silence. While Ola was eating her dinner in the car, dad went to look around. It didn’t look from the road like there was anything going on in the neighborhood. We were just dissapointed and getting ready to leave when we saw somebody going out of home. And that’s how we met Temur, a head of family and the owner of the old wine cellar. In the first way he took us to his vineyard. Suddenly we found ourselves under a roof of grapes. It’s the first time we saw vines growing this way. The impression was amazing, as far as eye can see there were all grapes hanging from the vine. Following housholder we entered to this magical land.

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Straight from the yard we went to the barn, a small museum of Georgian wine manufacturing art. All items gathered there have been used by their ancestors as this family has lived there for generations. After seeing all exhibits and souvenirs we landed at the table, acompanied by other family members.

Table was full of traditional Georgian homemade food: bread, cheese, pickled cucumbers and fresh friuts straight from the garden. And of course that thing that led us there – wine. Also homemade, red and white. And together with that our host turned into real georgian tamada – a toastmaster. How many times we raised our glasses, we cannot remmeber. We drank to us, them, babies, women, men, Georgians, peace, love and so on. Finally we were even offered chacha, local homemade vodka, or more than vodka cause 60%! Dad took it with dignity but not without some difficulties.

Of course Ola was the one who attracted the most attention. She had to be carried and loved all the time.

The tradition of drinking in Georgia says that, after the toast, one has to drink whole glass at once. That’s because in the past animal horns were used as glasses and there was no way to put it aside without emptying it first.

After finishing all wine on the table and discussing everything that came to our minds we left previously being given apricots, couple bunches of grapes and of course another bottle of wine.

We have to addmit that wine was not particularly tasty but the atmosphere we found there, Temur’s and his wife’s hospitality and warm welcome made this night unforgetable. That was the most true experience we’ve had in Georgia so far. This night was incredible, however dad’s next morning wasn’t easy…

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Georgian Colchis: from Argonauts to Chiatura

24/10/2014 — by admin — 0

Western regions of todays Georgia (reaching Imeretia region) are the successors of ancient Colchis. An area of incredible welth according to Greek mythology. That mythological and historical land covered all western coasts of the Black Sea from todays Sochi (Russian Federation) until Trabzon (Turkey). Its history goes back to at least 6 centuries BC. It took a serius part in Greek mythology as the destination of Argonauts in their quest for the Golden Fleece. It’s the teritory of Georgia where this sybol of power and kingship was held.

It’s also Colchis teritories where supposedly Prometheus suffered his punishment for giving fire to the people. From this history derives Sataplia State Nature Reserve naming one of its caves Prometheus Cave. This is an open for visitors, one of the richest caves in Europe of total 20 000 meters. 1420 meters out of them is accessible for tourists.
Finding the cave is not easy. Starting point for this trip should be in the city Tskaltubo. And it’s enough to take the correct turn on the big roundabout there. The thing is that in some moment the signs just disapear. Looking for the caves we had to stop and ask for directions several times. After way more time than described 30 minutes from Kutaisi we reached our destination. We are not even able to give any advice now. Going there just make sure you take your GPS with you.

Fast preparation and we were ready to go to undergroud.

What was our surprise when we found out that not only they are closing at 6 o’clock (within 40 minutes) but also kids under 6 are not allowed inside. After so much time of looking for the cave, driving up the mountains only one of us will get a chance to see it. Dad was chosen to be the one and go underground to see those miracles of nature. Disappointed mom and Ola stayed on the ground. But you can always count on Georgians! There was some another group coming after 6 o’clock and awesome staff made sure mom joins it!

The cave itself is very big, consists of 5 halls and passages between them. Inside there is between 14 and 17 degrees Celsius and humidity of 98%. Long sleeve could be useful but is not necessary.

Views in the cave are magnificient. The diversity of forms created by water and wind is very large. And they are so big that it must have taken hundred of centuries to build them. Imagine only that it takes a hundred years to build one centimeter of such stalactite. Some of the halls are even 15 meters high. One of them is called a Love Hall and it’s really possible to get married in there. The tour with a guide takes around an hour and costs 7 GEL including a boat ride as a last part of the excursion and way to the exit. It doesn’t look as fabulously as we imagined and in our opinion the visit to the cave is good enough without this cruise.

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That was an awesome experience which is undescribable by pictures. Anyone, who has never been to any serious size cave will be delighted.

The capital city of Colchis was Kutaisi. It probably originated in 6th century BC. The city was built in the most fertile and strategic location where the trade routes crossed. It used to be the capital of the country. Today it is the second largest city in Georgia and popular turistic destination thanks to an iternational airport serving mostly cheap airlines conecting Georgia with Russia, Belarus, Iraq, Turkey, Hungary and Poland. Small and very convinient airport recently even opened a duty free zone.

The disadvantage of flying there is the distance from Tbilisi, as most of tourists starts sightseeing Georgia from the capital city and the additional fee when renting a car for bringing it from and returning to Tbilisi. Here we have to advise Rent Service Georgia LLC and Giorgi Sidamonidze from cars4rent.ge. Good service, good car and nice, very helpful people.

Baby car seat we took from home cause car rentals offer it usually at quite high prices but first and foremost – you will never know what condition you will get it in. It’s the safety of Ola and since we are still using the smallest seat it’s quite easy to take it with us. Our trick for the transport in cheap airlines, so that not to pay for it as a separate piece of luggage, was to mount it as a part of the stroller and stroller seat put in the big bag. We needed the big bag anyway and it fit the seat easily.

But coming back to Kutaisi. The city itself is nothing special; those are the two religious buildings that attract tourists in this area. Both of them are UNESCO World Heritage sites. First of them, Bagrati Cathedral is located within city and easily reachable on foot. It’s an 11th-century church which was rebuilt in 2012. The rebuilt is being discussed as it resulted in condemnation by UNESCO and puting the object on the list of UNESCO heritage sites in danger.

The other one, Gelati Monastery, is located 20 minutes by car from the city centre. This temple is from the beginning of XII century. At this time the object was an intelectual and cultural centre as it held an Academy under it’s roof. Murals that can be observed on the monastery’s wals are the original ones from medieval times and after.

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In the centre of Kutaisi there is a nice, well-groomed park and traffic circle with characteristic fountain. This is a place where local youth hangs around. It’s completely safe place, even inthe middle of the nght. The police being always around the corner but comes only to ask if everything is ok and to tell you that they are here in case you need anything!

Above attractions are easy reachable and mentioned in all guidebooks. Now let us take you to an unobvious place. This place is Chiatura. To reach this 20 000 people town we left Kutaisi-Tbilisi road in Zestaphoni and turned towards Chiatura. Google maps suggests that the road takes around 40 minutes while it really took us around 2 hours. Google should know that in the mountains there will be only turns on our way. Up and down. And up again… So 40km/h is the average speed you can expect. Road in general is very good, only couple times it’s misses asphalt.

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This area is rich in mangan and probably its reserves are the largest in the world. Local mine, still working, probably employs most of Chiaturians. Because the town is located in a very narrow valley with steep sides, Chiatura had to reach for hillsides to provide accomodation for its inhabitants. Apartment buildings are located at different heights.

The way home after work in mining (in the valley) could be more tiring than the work itself. To save the workers power in the fifties of 20th century they built a system of cable cars transporting people from the centre to their homes on the hills. Since that time noting has changed. Old-fashioned cable cars still carry people up the hills. The thing is that it all makes the impression that it has never been renovated and it’s quite dangerous to use it. But Chiaturans keep on traveling like that day by day.

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Town itself makes rather deppresive impression. Probably they do not see to many tourists as we were carefully observed. Pushing a stroller with a little baby through rather empty city center couldn’t stay unnoticed by locals loitering here and there.

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Georgian coast: Batumi is not enough

23/10/2014 — by admin — 0

Georgia is one of the most admirable places in the Caucasus and one of our most favourite places at all. It’s a country with a turbulent history, phenomenal beauty of nature and amazing people. It’s been like a magnet for us since the first time we got there. So we took our 5-month-old daughter in her first serious trip naturally there.

Our first steps we directed towards western part of the country, to the Black Sea coast. The most famous Georgian summer resort by the sea is Batumi. It’s the capital city of Adjara region and is located right between sea and the mountains. While swimming in the sea one can admire snow-capped mountain peaks.

The population of Batumi is around 160 000 but in the summertime it attracts masses of people. Georgians and foreign visitors crowdly occupy the rocky beaches. For those visitors the biggest hotel chains like Sheraton or Radison Blu invested in the city giving its landscape a modern and rich glance.

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Besides them Georgian authorities let in Batumi, as well as in other parts of country, modern, bold architectural ideas. That bulids quite a contrast between that modern, rich resort center and rather poor city outskirts and other parts of the country. Wanting to know real life in Georgia it’s better to choose a more simple location. That gives the chance to meet really friendly people and feel that unique Georgian atmosphere.

One of the biggest attraction of Batumi, of course right after the sea, is a botanical garden. It’s one of the biggest gardens in this part of the world (111 hectare). Interested in seeing plants from all over the world have to prepare for couple hours of walking up and down the hills or riding a melex. Garden is really big and offers really intersting objects, which form of course depends on the season.

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This time for our leisure at the Black Sea we chose another summer location – Ureki. I think we expected something a little different. The little village is full of booths with food, swimming accesories, clothes and God only knows what else. There are some bars but we haven’t tried them. Streets in a mess, loudy restaurants and all day bustle are not the picture of real Georgia for us.

At the beach at our surprise we found black sand. The entire beach was black and looked just dirty. But it’s all natural and supposedly magic. This sand has been brougth from the mountains by the river Inguri. Low magnetic field and increased amount of ferromagnetic minerals of the sand give it curative virtues. Those features are highly recommended for, hmm… every disease in every age. We didn’t try to do anything else than just to seat on it on the blanket. And it was as hot as expected.
Anyway, that was the place where Ola for the first time in her life swam in the sea, at the age 5 months. She accepted is stoically as if it was her usual swimming pool. Like it was nothing new. She only gained excitement of other sunbathers. You have to know that Georgians are very friendly towards children.

Ola was probably one of the the smallest people swimming. At that time she was smaller than her stroller wheels.

Worth mentioning is local comunication or rather means of transportations. High temperatures make people change from buses (no AC) normally used as marshrutkas to open vehicles providing a gust of wind.

Adjara occupies an important position in Georgian culinary world by its own type of khachapuri. This is a national georgian type of cheese-filled bread and many regions developed their own ways of cooking it. Adjarian happens to became our favourite one. It’s an eye-shaped dough baked with cheese and egg on top. This is how it’s served at its origin.

Good side dish for that is a tomato, cucumber salad. Popular accross whole country and always a good choice for some vegetables for dinner. Ripe, juicy tomatoes, cucumber with fresh parsley and coriander don’t taste like that anywhere else.

This region of Georgia offers more intersting places – out of our own experience we can also advise going to the mountains by the road by Acharistskali River. Mountain views, of course on condition of good weather, are amazing.

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A must see in this area are medieval stone bridges. Made of volcanic stone and lime bridges are of similar construction and proportions. The most famous, for the thin arch and its perfection (out of over a dosen similar) is an almost thousand-year-old Queen Tamar bridge in Dandalo.

We suppose that northeast cost of Black Sea offers many interesting sites but this time the furthest we went was Zugdidi. Right outside the city there is a barrier, a boarder with Abkhazia. To cross it one needs a visa to Autonomous Republic of Abkhazia.

Next time we are there we will pay them a visit to better understand this Georgian – Abkhazian conflict. For now Abkhazia stays for us just an autonomous republic recognised by Russia, Nicaragua, Venezuela, Nauru, South Ossetia, Transnistria and Nagorno-Karabakh with a history full of war.

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Mikolajki – Polish sailing capital

30/06/2014 — by admin — 0

After succesfull trip to Lithuania we were anxious waiting for next chance of going out from home. It was hot summer and we were dreaming about an escape from the city. When the oportunity came for our weekend break we chose Mikolajki, a small town in Polish Masurian Lake District.

Masuria covers an area of 10 000 square kilometers with 2000 lakes connected by a system of canals. The region shape is a result of glaciers activity around 14,000 – 15,000 years ago. Today it gives wonderful possibilities for sailors bringing to the lakes thousands of tourists each year.

The idea of canals goes back to the mid of eighteenth century but todays shape of water connections was achieved in the mid of ninteenth century. System of waterways from Pisz to Wegorzewo includes 13 canals (today 11 in use) connecting Masurian lakes. That allows sailors for days of fun on the water and makes the Masurian waters full of boats from the very begining of May until the end of September.

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Almost 4-thousand-people town Mikolajki is located at Mikolajskie and Talty lake. Thanks to such position it became a sailing capital of Poland. Local marina and the offer of hang out throughout whole summer attracts all sailors of Masurian lakes. This time the pleasure of sailing was not for us. We had to remain on the land and at least breathe the atmosphere of summer at the lake. Although local port offers an opportunity to get on the water for those like us as well. Passenger vessels take for the cruise accros the lake thousands of people each season.

Mikolajki offers accomodation for around 1500 people starting from many campsites (out of which Wagabunda deserves to be recommended) on luxury hotels ending. For our stay we chose a new Mikolajki Hotel built in 2013 on Birds Island on Mikolajskie lake. This modern looking building at first sight doesn’t fit into that landscape but after getting used to that view we appreciated a good example of modern architecture in Mikolajki landscape.
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Hotel has an offer of spa and wellness zone. Beside the recreation pool with massages there is a paddling pool just perfect for the little ones – warm water, 0,4m deep. Of course we had those special diapers for swimming. It’s a great invention – in case anything happens they keep it tight and it’s easy to remove it from the swimming pool without contaminating whole water. Luckily we didn’t have to practice that and enjoyed swimming in a pool.
This time we asked for a baby cot for Ola. We received a travel cot, unfortunately without a floor, with a soft mattress that didn’t look like good place for a baby to sleep. But using some pillows we made it even and Ola could comfortably sleep in that sweet linen.

Girls’s early morning snack time surprised mom and Ola with a beautiful sunrise.

Mikolajki is also a good base to visit other interesting places in Masuria. This part of Poland has a very interesting history and some monuments whch survived until today let us meet the history. The beginnings of settlement in this area are dated to15 000 years back. Within an hour drive there are many interesting sights such as castles in Ryn, Reszel, Ketrzyn, Gizycko, monastery of Old Believers in Wojnowo or Wolf’s Lair, Hitler’s 1941-44 Eastern Front headquater.

But the best way to visit Masuria is a boat. Not only it allows to stop at interesting places but also lets enjoy the biggest treasure of Masuria – it’s unique nature. When Ola grows up a little we will surely be back on the water.

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First time together

22/05/2014 — by admin — 0

That was short after Ola was born when the long May weekend was coming. Our first long weekend since we had her. We were wondering what to do – can we go somewhere as we used to do or stay home and let Ola sleep in her own bed. We made the decision to take our daughter in her first trip.

She was 6 weeks old going in her first journey.

We decided to show her one of our favourite cities – Vilnius, Lithuania. It’s not far away from home so she didn’t have to spend whole day in a car seat. Her passport was already in the drawer, just waiting for its time, so we could go abroad with no stress. One day she will hate us for that passport picture – taken only few days after coming home from hospital, she was all swollen and barely could open her eyes. We will have to change it soon, not to embarrass her.

For the first time we had to find room in our luggage for those little pants and bodysuits. They didn’t take too much space. Unlike the diapers – those took more space than all her cothes and other stuff! As the beginners we weren’t sure how many of them to take so probably we took twice as many as needed. We knew that they are easily reachable in Vilnius but it was easier just to take them from home and not to bother about them once we are there. Our first packing went not too bad – one big bag for the three of us. But how to fit it in the car trunk together with the baby carriage? Few minutes of intense attempts and we made it. Just pushed a little harder to close and we were off for the weekend.
We arrived to Vilnius after couple hours drive and a few snack stops. Hunger wins with everything and forces us to stop no matter what.

Vilnius is a beautiful city, the biggest in Lithuania – over 500 000 people. It’s been Lithuania’s capital since 1323. The most important person to the city and country history was Grand Duke Gediminas and the city is strongly connected with him. Vilnius is a medieval city and has always been a great mix of nationalities and religions. Such mix is reflected in big diversity of the city and development of local culture and architecture.
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Vilnius

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As an extremely interesting city it deserves for a separate detailed post. But this time our visit here is to set off new chapter of our voyages, the ones with our daughter, suggest the idea of visiting Vilnius and give some general advices from our new point of view. We love the city that much, that we will soon be ther again and will come back with specific ideas for visiting Vilnius.

For the first time, being in Vilnius tens of times, we noticed how high street curbs are and discovered what cobblestone pavements can do with the little head in the stroller. To visit city center we suggest a baby carrier or a vowen wrap. Necesarily for the very little ones. For bigger children the stroller will do but the little ones need to be carried or pushed in the carriage with serious springs.

We spent whole days wandering through the city, visiting all more and less popular corners of Vilnius.
As it was that blessed time when our daughter slept most of the day she didn’t take too much out of this visit. Definitely we will have to come back to show her everything.

[photosetgrid layout=”3″] Vilnius Vilnius University Uzupis, Vilnius [/photosetgrid]
Thankfully we really like Vilnius and surely will be back there at the next oportunity of some holidays. The charming views of the city always make us want to come back.

This first trip gave us an idea about traveling with the baby. We started paying attention where the baby changing tables are avialable – really not a popular thing, even if its just a borad hanging on the wall. Thankfully now we can easily change the baby in the carrier. We suddenly noticed how high the curbs on the streets are and how important are the driveways at pedestrian crossings.

Over the time and along with number of visited places we will probably be discovering more and more facilitates and difficulties. Stay with us find out more…

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Blog Na stole

7 things you have to try in Georgia

Blog Na stole

Georgian ambrosia – our wine stories

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Georgian Colchis: from Argonauts to Chiatura

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Georgian coast: Batumi is not enough

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Mikolajki – Polish sailing capital

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First time together