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Right, one day. We want to advise you a one day trip to Gozo island when being on holidays in Malta. Not everyone knows that Malta is not only that one, biggest island but a whole archipelago of islets, out of which only three are inhabited. Gozo is second big island; it is way smaller than Malta because it has only 67 km² and all its inhabitants would easily fit in one of average european towns (approx. 30 000). Because of this compact size the island is just perfect for a day trip. And taking such trip is a must.

Right at the begininng of the expedition we are coming across the first attraction – a Gozo ferry. If you rented a car you can take it with you, park on a lower deck and go upstairs to see all the beautiful views. But hurry up, the journey takes only 20 minutes. Traveling in the lower deck is generally not advised but some situations make us do things we do not always want to. When we were going to the island with Ola she fell asleep while waiting in the queue line to the ferry. We had no heart to wake her up and mom stayed with her in the car throughout the whole cruise. Luckily dad went upstairs to see the views and take some pictures. You can take the ferry also traveling without car, you just go straight to the upper deck and admire the view over Malta’s third island Comino and its little companion Cominetto. Comino is very intimate place, it has in total 3,5 km² and all its inhabitants is one family of four. Despite it is so small it still offers some places of interest. From the passing by ferry we are noticing Saint Mary’s Tower from 17th century but its biggest attraction is located on the other side, not visible from the ferry. It’s a Blue Lagoon, a sea bay with amazing azure water, sandy bottom, quite shallow so perfect for beach fun not only with kids. The view over lagoon reminds those paradise beaches somewhere on the end of the world, of course only when it is not crowded with people.

Coming back to Gozo: it is still a part of the country of Malta but leaving the ferry we are noticing a little different character of this island. At first sight we can tell that not all the turists visiting Malta get here. Gozo is more peaceful than the main island. It seemed to be a better place to live for local people, especialy those not working in tourism industry. But in fact one out of five work places on this island is generated by tourism anyway. The network of buildings is not so thick and more areas are cultivated. Apart from other crops Gozo is also home of the vines. There are two wineries on the island Tal-Massar and Ta’ Mena. The second one is generaly involved in agriculture so you can try some of Maltese produce there. Beside sun-dried tomatoes, marinated onions and various fruit jams you can try some famous Gozo cheese there. It is a little salty cheese made of goat milk. And since we are talking about cuisine it is worth to mention that Gozo seems to be a little more Italian than the rest of the country. Maybe it’s because first Gozo settlers were the incomers from Sicily why its inhabitants feel close to Italy. Even in the period of island’s short independence Gozo turned towards Italy. Those were three years after getting out of French control and passing under British protectorate. Breaking free from the French, Gozo citizens in the number of 16 000 passes their island under the rule of the King of Sicily forming their own government managing the island.

Even today islanders enjoy some kind of independence and separateness. Despite several attempts to plan a construction of a bridge or underwater tunnel connecting Gozo with Malta nothing of such has ever been agreed and built. Gozitans do not really seek for permanent connection with Malta and regular (although not cheap) ferry connection seems to be totaly satisfying for them today.

The capital of Gozo, Rabat, is a home of one fourth out of 30 000 island’s citizens. The official name of the capital, which was given by the British for the golden jubilee of the Queen, is Victoria however most of the residents continue using Rabat, a name from the Arab times (9-12 century). But you have to be very careful to avoid misunderstanding because there is another city on Malta of the same name.

We have read somewhere that Gozo has only 5 traffic lights, although we didn’t try to count them we are ready to believe it. Small towns do not require any intervention in traffic. Even in Victoria the drivers do very well without traffic lights, especially since most of the city streets are small and narrow roads, winding among buildings, often one way, so lights seem to be completely unnecessary.

But let’s finally talk about what to see and do on Gozo

Beside trying local cuisine, what we already mentioned before, you should necessarily visit central point of Victoria – the Cittadella. You will surely not miss it, it is a huge construction rising in the center of the city and in fact a main point from which it the city spills on the slopes of the main hill. It is a defensive formation developed in the Middle Ages. Developed, because the first signs of settlement in this place are dated on 1500 before Christ and the defensive character it probably got in the Middle Ages when the settlement was transformed into Gran Castello. In 15th century formation was strengthen due to intensified attacks of pirates seeking for slaves. With time it became insufficient so the beginning of 17th century brought further development to the extend of what we can see today.

The restoration proces started in 2008 and has been continued until today. Although restoration is ongoing we can enter the Cittadella and see already open museums and exhibitions. The ubiquitous dust and construction materials spoil a little the impression of the area but after it’s finished the place will surely be impresive. Today we can take a walk on the walls, see the fields with characteristic stone fences stretching to the horizon and imagine 16th century defense of the fortress and at the end visit the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Madonna.

It’s a Roman Catholic church from the turn of 17th century built in Baroque style of the same limestone as the rest of the Cittadella. The interesting thing is the fact that previously designed dome of the church has never been built but instead the ceiling painting, an illusion of the dome, was created. Seeing on one of the weekdays a bunch of smiling happy children coming out of the church you can figure out how important religion is for Maltans. Immediately, seeing all the children, Ola tried to make new friends but the kids were significantly older than her so we went straight to the walls. After a short walk around, although it wasn’t possible, Ola looked as if she had wiped all the dust from Citadella.

Following this sacral trail we direct our next steps to the town of Xewkija, located right before Victoria, with the population of 3000 people. Main point of the town is Xewkija Church, which has one of the most impresive domes in the world. That built in 19th century shrine can hold all the townspeople at one service. Of course there is a lift taking all interested in to the dome to see from the above even the northern edges of Malta. The other name of the temple is Xewkija Rotunda.

Staying in the religious mood we can move back in time, namely more than 5500 years ago when first megailthic religious monuments were created. Megalithic character of formation means that they were built of large unworked stones. They had nothing in common with Christian religion as such did not even exist at that time. Probably the deity of fertility was worshipped in those temples. Those two objects located in Ggantija are today second oldest human-built religious objects (after Göbekli Tepe in Turkey).

Those still not satisfied with religious objects we advise just to look around. There are reportedly 46 of churches on Gozo, so each one is for around 700 people and if you take into consideration the fact that Xewkija Church is able to hold 3000 people then what attendance can the others count on? We are wondering if there is any other place in the world with so many sacral objects per person!

Churches, churches but it is the nature that mostly attracts tourists to Gozo. We mean here the biggest attraction of the island – the famous Azure Window. The name tells us all that we should expect. As a result of two sea caves collapse a limestone formation making a kind of a window over azure waters of Mediterranean Sea was created. Until recently one could have had easily got on the top of the window but today the coast is full of signs forbidding climbing the rock because over the years the structure weakened and some underneath rocks began to fall. The window keeps  getting bigger and there are fears for collapsing it totally. So if you want to see that beautiful landscape and the scenery of many movies such as “Odyssey”, “Count of Monte Christo” or “Game of thrones” you should rather to hurry up because it might collapse within few years. To get there we can come by car or take a bus, both will take us almost to the window and we especialy advise doing it while the rock is beautifully lit by setting sun. For those who will not confine themselves to admiring the window from a distance boat rides around the rock are available. You can also try diving in the waters surrounding the window.

Out of this breathtaking surrounding our daughter liked the most a huge dog passing by. It was at least as big as Ola and seemed to be interested in her as much as she was in him. We ended up spending a good while with the dog before we could do anything.

We almost forgot but there is a one more attraction in the same place. This is nothing spectacular as for the view but it represents an interesting story. This is Fungus Rock, a sea rock covered with one type of plant (Cynomorium coccineum), which used to be thought to be fungus. The Knights of Malta guarded it like a hawk because of its healing properties. They used it for all ailments and as a wound dressing. It was so valuable at the times of the Order that was even used in trade and guarded round the clock by security guards stationed in the nearby tower. Everyone who wanted to get close to the rock risked severe punishment. Today some plant’s medical features are confirmed and a rock itself is also protected – Maltese created a nature reserve there. Neighboring beaches are just perfect for scuba diving and attract many people, luckily even those swimming right around the rock are not any threat to the nature.

Apart from above mentioned, Gozo offers many others perfect for water sports places. Scuba diving fans should be particularily happy. Underwater landscapes are said to be amazing, water crystal and of temperature allowing diving all year round.  If Gozo was able to convince you to spend there some more time than just one day, it will be a good idea to look around for a local farmhouse to stay in. Those are typical Maltese houses, country cottages renovated to provide really high standard for the visitors. Most of them offer at least a small swimming pool. Supposedly it is a great way to stay on Gozo. We haven’t tried this time but might consider next time. That would surely be a good place for Ola.

If you chose to spend one day on Gozo, on your way back to the ferry you can take a ride through Marsalforn coast in order to see how Maltese used to (some of them do today) acquire sea salt. The seashore is like a chessboard covered with square shallow “pools” full of water. After its evaporation, quite fast in this climate, Maltans will collect the salt and store in the caves carved in the rock accross the street.

And so the trip to Gozo comes to an end. Operating round the clock ferry takes us back to loud and full of people Malta, but we have to admitt that it was worth to come here.

We have always associated Malta with the sea, maginificent bays and beaches but its biggest attraction is hidden inland, far from the sea. Mdina and Rabat, previously one city located in the middle of the island should be obligaory during each visit to the archipelago. Not only because of its architecture, unique atmosphere but also because it’s a perfect place to get to know island’s history. We will lead you through it following it’s sequential names given by different nations ruling the country.

MALETH, OR PHOENICIANS ON THE ISLAND

The history of settlement on the island dates back to Stone Age but only its colonization by Phoenitians gave foundations of todays cities of Mdina and Rabat. Its strategic location on one of the highest points, with a panoramic view over whole island protecting it from the sea attack made it grow rappidly. Phoenitians called their settlement Maleth, what means “safe city”. Over the years whole island passed under the rule of Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans. Lasting more than 700 years the reign of the Roman Empire brought the hill further development. In this period wooden buildings were replaced with large brick Roman houses. Because the island had that special status of Municipium Rome governor’s palace was built there. That’s when the most cruicial event in the history of Malta took place – a ship transporting slaves crashed at its coast. It carried among them one exceptional person – Paul of Tarsus.

MELITA, OR SAINT PAUL ON THE ISLAND

Paul of Tarsus, known later as Saint Paul, did not expect to visit Malta but his arrival had a significant influence on Maltese religion and culture, making it the most Catholic country in Europe until today. Although St. Paul spent three months on that hill, called Melita at that time, we have very little information about his stay and evangelic mission. The most information gives the Act of the Apostles:

After we had reached safety, we then learned that the island was called Malta. The natives showed us unusual kindness. Since it had begun to rain and was cold, they kindled a fire and welcomed all of us round it. Paul had gathered a bundle of brushwood and was putting it on the fire, when a viper, driven out by the heat, fastened itself on his hand. When the natives saw the creature hanging from his hand, they said to one another, ‘This man must be a murderer; though he has escaped from the sea, justice has not allowed him to live.’ He, however, shook off the creature into the fire and suffered no harm. They were expecting him to swell up or drop dead, but after they had waited a long time and saw that nothing unusual had happened to him, they changed their minds and began to say that he was a god. Now in the neighbourhood of that place were lands belonging to the leading man of the island, named Publius, who received us and entertained us hospitably for three days. It so happened that the father of Publius lay sick in bed with fever and dysentery. Paul visited him and cured him by praying and putting his hands on him. After this happened, the rest of the people on the island who had diseases also came and were cured. They bestowed many honours on us and when we were about to sail they put on board all the provisions we needed.

There was very little of tangible evidence of Paul of Tarsus stay on the hill. Above the grotto where he allegedly spent couple of weeks, Maltans built a chapel and in 16th century a church of his name. Grotto is today open for visitors with its central point of St. Paul statue made of white marble. Many attractions on the island, such as situated next to the grotto catacombs, are named after the apostle. They originated around 3rd century and have nothing to do with Paul of Tarsus, they are named after located nearby St. Paul’s church.

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MDINA AND RABAT, OR THE REIGN OF ARAB ON THE ISLAND

In 533 the island came under the short rule of the Eastern Empire. Another important period in its history started in 870 with the invasion of Saracens, Arab nomadic tribe.  They built a moat and large defensive walls which we can admire until today and divided the settlement into two parts. Suburbs, where above mentioned grotto and church are located, were outside the walls and were given the name Rabat. Areas inside the walls created a fortified settlement Mdina, which despite many twists of history kept its original character. Narrow and winding streets, symbol of the city, were also the idea of the Arabs. The character of the settlement, according to its name (Midna in arabic means “fortress”) was to make it impregnable; but only in 1091 due to outnumbered enemy troops the Arabs surrendered the settlement, ironically, without fight. The island passed successively through the hands of the Scandinavians, Angevin and Aragonese who again changed the city’s name. This time they called it Citta Notabile (Noble City). That was probably due to the fact that the most important families of Malta lived there. In 1530 by the decision of Spanish King Charles V the city was transferred to Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem of Rhodos and Malta, later called the Order of Malta.

CITTA VECCHIA, OR THE ORDER ON THE ISLAND

Apperance of the Order in Malta has set off a great development of the island, while Mdina started to loose its meaning. Knights of Matla after heroic defense of their land in 1565 from the army of Suleiman the Magnificent, in fear of re-invasion, decided to move the capital somewhere else. In honour of Jean de la Valette, Grand Master of the Order commanding the army during the siege, they called new capital Valletta. After settling it in the eastern part of the island, they again changed Mdina’s name, this time to Citta Vecchia – Old City. The reign of the Knights Hospitaller was the golden period in the history of the island, the Order not only built a new capital, but also several forts, tens of watchtowers and hundreds of churches. At the same time the religious consciousness initiated there by St. Paul strengthened. In 1693 as a result of the earthquake, Mdina faced the greatest damage. After the cataclysm the city was rebuilt receiving its current apperance with the dominant cathedral of St. Paul. 

Later it slightly suffered plundered by Napoleon’s troops quickly expelled by the British, who ruled Malta until its independence. The biggest damage the city suffered in the period of British reign was from bombing during WWII. At this time above mentioned Catholic consciousness developed and became an element of national identity on the contrary to British Protestantism. Let the fact that divorces were forbidden on the island until 2011, make you understand how important religion is to Maltese people.

SILENT CITY, OR OLA ON THE ISLAND

Today the area eclosed within the walls is called the Silent City. Almost a total ban on trafic, small number of inhabitants and amazing silence makes it stand out from all other Maltese towns.  Lack of typical for Malta hustle and bustle perfectly reflects the name. The only thing that interrupts this peace and silence are noisy groups of tourists that seem not to notice signs asking for silence. All of them, advised by guides, visit the city in the evening but we decided to get there already during the day, or maybe afternoon and stay after dark. That seemed to be a very good idea.

The entrance from the side of Rabat is guarded by the Great Gate. Covering the bridge we are seeing huge moat and massive walls, which used to defend the settlement. What is interesting even after breaking through the first weak doors, the enemies were not yet inside the walls. While they were trying to break the second, stronger doors the third gate right behind them was closing making them trapped between doors. They were becoming an easy target and in most cases died of hot tar poured on them.

Today within the walls we can freely walk the maze of narrow and winding streets.  Those have survived further redevelopments of the city being since Arab times an element of the defence system allowing to prepare many pitfalls for invaders just “around the corner”.

The largest damage as we already mentioned was done during the earthquake in 1693. Then Mdina was rebuild in popular at that time Baroque style with the Cathedral of St. Paul which is the main church of the Catholic Archdiocese of Malta until today. According to the legend here was the residence of Publius where presumably St. Paul cured his father. Current structure was made using the elements of previous temple and thanks to that today we can see things such as Mattia Preti’s polychrome „The diseaster of St. Paul’s ship”.

Walking the charming streets it is worth to pay attention on the details of surrounding buildings: cast iron decoration of balconies, decorative knockers and numerous statues of saints at the doors. High bulidings provide some relief in the hottest days. Ola loved winding streets and very few steps, small traffic allowed her to freely run around. Lack of the stairs is probably the heritage of Maltese Order who built it taking into consideration the inconveniences of moving in full armor.

In fact that walk is the biggest attraction of the city but we also advise to visit the Cathedral Museum and St. Benedict’s Church and St. Agats’a Chapel. Other buildings worth attention are beautiful residences Palazzo Falson and Palazzo Vilhena. The dungeons of the second one host the museum of the art of war. Since it presents the scenes of tortures and executions obviously because of Ola we gave up this attraction. At the end of our visit we went to the second gate leading to the city – The Greek Gate. It is also richly decorated and was used mainly as a back door, a way to deliver goods to the city.

Waiting for the dusk we went for a dinner to one of Mdinas restaurants. Fontanella seemed to be the best for us, mainly because of its top deck situated on the walls from which we could admire amazing view over the island. Beautiful views are one of the reasons to visit Mdina, accompanied by a very good food make the evening unforgeteble. While it was getting darker the restaurant filled more and more. That must be those tourists advised to visit Mdina after dusk, we thought. Later on we found out that those were Maltans and the tourists at this time occupy the walls holding wine glasses in their hands. Few of such groups and the whole atmosphere of this silent place disappeared, it became just another crowdy and noisy place.

Despite all that we went for a short walk trying to choose those less attended areas. Many lamps with that subtle yellow light made the neighborhood look magical. The night came, Ola almost fell asleep in her stroller and happy of our day and night visit in Mdina we left the place.